Passing Through the World - ALWAYS ON THE WAY
Jiayuguan — the "Greatest Pass Under Heaven," nestled at the foot of the Qilian Mountains, deep in the great desert.
If you ask whether Jiayuguan is worth visiting, you'll find the answer after reading this.
Initially, I had no expectations for Jiayuguan. It was just a city we passed through on our "Hexi Corridor Journey," stopping for only one night to rest, as the intensive itinerary in Dunhuang had consumed considerable energy. Taking the high-speed rail from Dunhuang to Jiayuguan takes just 2 hours, yet the scenery completely changes.
At the foot of the Qilian Mountains, Jiayuguan is exactly as described in Wang Changling's poem: "A lonely city amidst ten-thousand-foot mountains."
During the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty, to strengthen northwestern frontier defense, Duke of Song Feng Sheng conquered the Hexi region. Soon, a rammed-earth city with a circumference of 220 zhang, height of two zhang, and width of one zhang rose near the Nine-Eye Spring — the earliest prototype of the Jiayuguan fortress. By the 18th year of the Jiajing reign, the pass city was reinforced and wing walls were built. Jiayuguan was constructed over 168 years, eventually forming a relatively complete defensive castle.
Thereafter, as conflicts with the Turpan regime in the Western Regions intensified, the Ming Dynasty implemented an intermittent "close-pass, cut-tribute" policy at Jiayuguan. By the Jiajing reign, with the relocation of the western guard posts inward, Jiayuguan thoroughly became the Ming Dynasty's westernmost limit, and Dunhuang beyond the pass was gradually sealed away. This is precisely why the Mogao Caves left no traces of cave excavation during the Ming Dynasty. The Ming Dynasty's strategic focus was on defending against the Mongols in the north, and the position of its capital Beijing determined that it could not devote its full effort to managing the Western Regions as the Han and Tang dynasties did, but could only draw a rest at Jiayuguan.
When we arrived at the "Western Starting Point of the Ming Great Wall" — Jiayuguan Pass City — and stood atop the walls, the northwestern wind howled ceaselessly. As far as the eye could see were the majestic Qilian Mountains and vast desert Gobi. The newly rebuilt towers tried hard to simulate the appearance of the Ming Dynasty, but could hardly recapture the emotion Pei Jingfu felt when he saw Jiayuguan: "The Great Wall reaches as high as the white clouds; one step up the perilous tower, ten thousand battlements seem low." The desolate yet romantic Northwest makes it hard not to feel nostalgic.
Now, let me introduce the attractions of Jiayuguan:
No.1 Jiayuguan Pass City
The Greatest Pass Under Heaven, the westernmost starting point of the Ming Great Wall, with reconstructed ancient-style architecture. Climb the tower and gaze into the distance for a unique view.
Tickets: Off-season joint ticket 90 RMB, peak season 100 RMB, including Pass City + Overhanging Great Wall + First Beacon Tower
Tips: If you seek authentic ancient architecture, the value for money is average
No.2 First Beacon Tower of the Great Wall
The first beacon tower at the western starting point of the Ming Great Wall. Behind the tower is the Taolai River, with spectacular canyon scenery.
Tickets: 21 RMB (free with Pass City joint ticket)
Transportation: Scenic area shuttle bus (round trip 20 RMB), purchase at the Jiayuguan Pass City visitor service center. Route: Pass City -> First Beacon Tower -> Overhanging Great Wall -> return to Pass City parking lot
No.3 Overhanging Great Wall
The "Badaling of the West," first built during the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty. The wall is steep, straight, and long, with a majestic appearance, hanging as if suspended. Together with the Broken Arm Great Wall, it forms a defensive posture, jointly guarding the Heishan Gorge pass. However, the climbable section of the Overhanging Great Wall is quite short, taking about 40 minutes to complete.
Tickets: 21 RMB (free with Pass City joint ticket)
Transportation: Scenic area shuttle bus (round trip 20 RMB), purchase at the Jiayuguan Pass City visitor service center. Route: Pass City -> First Beacon Tower -> Overhanging Great Wall -> return to Pass City parking lot.
All three scenic spots can be visited in half a day. There are no public buses from the city to the First Beacon Tower and Overhanging Great Wall. For small groups, take the scenic area shuttle bus; for larger groups, just take a taxi.
